Run, Don't Walk, to Scala's Bistro

OK, I'll admit it; I'm a "Top Chef" junkie. And now, surprise! I pull for the young women, mostly.

Last year, Jennifer Beisty, also sporting a cock's comb hairdo like a one of the dudes on this year's show, was a competitor.

I remember her from her years at Coco 500, Loretta Keller's SoMa bistro. Ahhh, the fried beans with fig dip.

Well, she didn't win, and we are winners because of that. She is the new exec chef at downtown's stylish Mediterranean restaurant, Scala's. Since it's located in a hotel, she has to pump out lots of food, beyond just lunch and dinner.

We dove into her menu like Michael Phelps going for the gold. One starter we tried was the seared (on the edges) tombo tuna with smoked paprika, pickled chilis, watermelon radish and preserved lemon. There was also arugula and basil oil. Too many ingredients? No way --perfect.

My friend tried the (probably) roasted red and yellow beets salad with olive tapenade.

We split a luscious risotto, toothsome and creamy, made with stinging nettles. I would go nowhere else in San Fran for a risotto after tasting this one.

For main courses we tried the arctic char, a white fish masquerading as a salmon, and totally delicious. I had the day boat scallops, spoiled by the inclusion of truffle oil, but still a very good dish.

(These were the dishes served when I visited, but they change frequently.)

Run, don't walk, to Scala's and do some shopping for the economy.

Scala's Bistro
432 Powell Street
San Francisco
(415) 395-8555
www.scalasbistro.com