A little love from Coi and Cane Rosso

Daniel Boulud once told us
"when I interview a chef for my kitchen, I ask him to cook a chicken".

I didn't quite understand this notion until two spectacular meals just a
week apart.  One, the most elegant and perfect; the other rustic and
satisfying - still perfect- but in it's own way.

Coi and Cane Rosso

Daniel Patterson, Executive Chef and proprietor of Coi and partner in Cane
Rosso
Lauren Kiino Partner in Cane Rosso, formerly of Coi
Matthew Fitch Sommelier of Coi
Doug Borkowski, Chef of Cane Rosso

These two restaurants are married in so many ways- attention to the
products- sourcing, freshness, local.  Attention to the details on the
plate- the perfect amount of season, flavor profile that creates harmony-
not one overwhelming the other.  The plates- At Coi- beautiful with style-
humor as well. Subtle earthy morel mushrooms- briny sea water- confit
chicken (omg seriously) things like radish powder and an inverted/broken
Beet and Goat Cheese Tart with rye, dill *I cannot explain it, but I loved
it.
Oh yes- and the dessert - some sort of malted milk bar heaven- I know - it
was called something else…. it was really stellar.
** we attended the Bocuse d'Or Dinner- which assumes perfection on the
plate- hello beautiful.

Cane Rosso, simple which can be just as difficult as complex - (to get it
right) I think-
*the menu states where what you are eating comes from- smart - the winter
greens are from Mariquita Farm, the pork is milk braised- the hazelnut
brownies with cajeta and whipped cream.. well they are from another plane
of existence (see my photo- not much left before I remembered the camera).

Surroundings- Coi- is elegantly perfect.  A quiet room, soft, nothing to
deflect from the plate- yet enough to make you feel the austere
sensibility of the cuisine. The staff is quiet, friendly welcoming,
Matthew Fitch was spectacular with the wine pairing.

Cane Rosso- simple; paper on the table; light from the Bay, and cheery
friendly staff. - simple is good- very good.

I am looking forward to hearing more about the development of the
concepts- about the restaurants and the stars- from the chefs themselves
on Dining Around this weekend
**12noon segment- but for now

I am thrilled to have had the opportunity to dine in these restaurants.

Joel

** the photos from Coi are from J.Unikel who was kind enough to share her
snaps! * she was at the next table- in a room of Unterman, Newberry,
Florence and - faboo people



COI Restaurant 373 Broadway San Francisco, CA
(415) 393-9000
www.coirestaurant.com

Cane Rosso 1 Ferry Building # 41 San Francisco, CA
(415) 391-7599
www.canerossosf.com