The Season to Roast Tomatoes

"To every thing there is a season, and a time to every purpose under heaven."

Whether this line triggers recollection of the third chapter of Ecclesiastes or has you humming the Byrds' mega-hit "Turn, Turn, Turn," surely you recognize its wisdom. Late summer brings creeping realization that some of our favorite things will soon be departing. We wistfully cling to taste memories of flawless juicy peaches, nectarines, plums and apricots; of garden-fresh lettuces, cucumbers, and the bite of just-pulled radishes; and, of course, of heirloom tomatoes, sweet, tart, juicy, exploding with flavor.

At a recent dinner party I fell into conversation with a friend who shares my passion for food and cooking. She excitedly related plans to visit a You-Pick-It tomato field in the Salinas Valley in early October to grab the last fruit of the season. My schedule didn't allow me to tag along, but she agreed to bring me a peck of either San Marzano or Roma tomatoes. I am going to oven roast them, pack a few in olive oil for the refrigerator, and freeze the rest.

Of course tomatoes can be canned or frozen, or made into sauce and frozen, but I think the very best way to extend their wonderful fresh flavor is oven roasting. One bite of an oven-roasted tomato, particularly in December or January, is all it takes to convince you that the little effort they take is more than worth it. Roasted tomatoes in olive oil will keep for about two weeks in the refrigerator. The roasted and frozen tomatoes (without the oil) will last for months in the freezer. Plum tomatoes are the best candidates for roasting, since they are meaty, but any variety can be treated the same way.

To oven roast tomatoes, preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Cut the tomatoes in half. You may remove some of the seeds and their pulp (not the meat of the tomato). Lay the tomato halves cut side up on a rimmed baking sheet (lining the sheet with aluminum foil makes cleanup easier). Drizzle the tomato halves with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Don't overdo the salt; remember the roasting will concentrate the flavor. If you wish you may sprinkle the tomato halves with chopped fresh thyme or basil. (For long-term flexibility of use I would omit the herbs.)

Roast uncovered in the preheated oven until the tomatoes are wilted and shrunk by about half. This takes two to three hours. Cool completely. Store some tomatoes immersed in olive oil in the refrigerator and freeze the rest. The best way to freeze the cooled tomatoes is to put them in a single layer on a baking sheet, uncovered, in the freezer and then, when frozen, store in freezer bags.

The best tomatoes can be ordered in bulk at farmers' markets and produce stands, but it's more fun to gather family and friends for an outing to the You-Pick-It farms. Such an adventure is perfect for children and their understanding of our food supply.

Mariquita Farms in Hollister has U-Pick-It days. Their mailing address is P.O. Box 2065, Watsonville, CA 95077-2065. Telephone: (831)761-8380. Web site: www.mariquita.com.

You can also try Two Small Farms, (831)786-0625.

Also check with the organization that runs the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, CUESA, at www.cuesa.org. Another source would be the Agricultural Extension Service or the Farm Bureau in your county. You-Pick-It farms are great sources for things such as cucumbers for pickling, berries for jams and jellies, and apples for cider. They all help the harvest live on when colder months arrive.

Enjoy!

Gene Burns